Airbrush Paint for Plastics

[nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org]

In addition to Russ Goodwin's painting comments drop three (3) no more BB's
in the jar when you open it, they help GREATLY when shaking the bottle
before reopening, Shake, remix the paint, it will separate, let set a few
minutes before using. Cal. Reynolds
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org>
To: <nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org>
Sent: Thursday, August 05, 2004 1:23 AM
Subject: RE: Airbrush Paint for Plastics


> As a custom painter, the best starting point for a novice is water, food
> coloring and a stack of paper plates in order to get used to how the
> airbrush works in regards to air pressure and type (single or dual
action).
> Water & FC is a lot cheaper than paint and plastic. Also get Jeff Wilson's
> painting book from Kalmbach Publishing for further reference info.
>
> When you're ready, try to shoot in a well ventalated area or in a spray
> booth. PollyScale can be cut with water, shot straight from the bottle or
> cut with their airbrush thinner. I've also heard isopropyl alcohol works
as
> well, haven't tried it, so I can't confirm. PollyScale also has a wide
> variety of colors to choose from. Only drawback is it yields a flat finish
> that needs to be gloss coated prior to decalling, then sealed.
>
> My personal preference is Scalecoat (metal) and Scalecoat II (plastic),
cut
> 10-15% with their thinner for each product. The paint yields a high gloss
> coat, which can be decalled directly onto, then overcoated for a seal.
> PollyScale is my second choice based on color availability. (Check with
> DesPlaines Hobbies in DesPlaines, IL (Chicagoland area) for Custom
Scalecoat
> II Colors including IT Green.)
>
> Personal opinion on other paints; ModelFlex and Accuflex dry to quickly to
> the airbrush and gum it up, thinner from mfgr; AccuPaint great paint,
> finishes like Scalecoat, unreliable availability, thins with isopropyl
> alcohol; Floquil, great paint, great high, use their thinner, need
multiple
> clear coats for applying & sealing decals. I do use Floquil for a limited
> number of colors - Sou Frt Car Brown and Platinum Mist.
>
> When finished, I clean all the parts with Acetone, a little harsh, but
works
> well.
>
> Two tricks to handling paint; mix it with a babyfood or "Martini" mixer,
> don't shake the bottle, fewer micro bubbles in the paint; clean the rim of
> the bottle and jar lid with a "Q-Tip" and acetone, then dab a little
> Vasaline or Chapstick around the rim of the bottle to create a airtight
> seal. Turning the bottle over works as well, just not a personal
preference.
>
> Hope this helps,
>
> Russ Goodwin
>
>
> >From: nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org
> >Reply-To: "N&amp;W Modeling List" <nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org>
> >To: nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org
> >Subject: Airbrush Paint for Plastics
> >Date: Mon, 02 Aug 2004 18:11:53 -0400
> >
> >Painters,
> >
> >While I'm not new to modeling or painting, I am new to air brushing.
> >Could you as a veteran recommend a brand of paints and thinner for a
> >novice?
> >How about a brand of air brush? I'm thinking about starting with a single
> >action brush. Comments?
> >
> >Steam on,
> >Dave Willis.
> >Norfolk and Western, 1940->1950
> >
> >
> >________________________________________
> >NW-Modeling-List at nwhs.org
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>
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