CODE 83 RAIL

NW Modeling List nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org
Wed Jan 31 12:37:45 EST 2007


I've never tried this but it seems you could put a tapered shim under
the track (ties and all) and then let your ballast cover it. How are
the transitions usually made between mainline and sidings/yards?



Jim Slack

Wichita, KS





-----Original Message-----
From: NW Modeling List [mailto:nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org]
Sent: Tuesday, January 30, 2007 6:37 PM
To: NW Modeling List
Subject: Re: CODE 83 RAIL



I have a question.. I have a lot of code 100 already laid... using code
83 to continue would be nice, but is there a transitional piece of track
or something to use to bridge the two together without an unsightly bump
in the railjoint?



Bob WElsh

----- Original Message -----

From: NW <mailto:nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org> Modeling List

To: NW <mailto:nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org> Modeling List

Sent: Tuesday, January 30, 2007 10:56 AM

Subject: Re: CODE 83 RAIL



FWIW, I am using Atlas 83 for the first time and love it. It seems ot
be much easier to work with than the Atlas 100 I have used in the past,
plus I think that it looks a lot more realistic. For my turnouts and
crossovers, I have been using Shinohara instead of the Atlas. I used
some Atlas pieces and replaced them b/c I just didn't like the way the
cars would bobble going over the frogs.



Will



NW Modeling List <nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org> wrote:

As the big day approaches to start laying track, any thoughts on the
best size? Hopefully folks with more experience can advise if you've
had good results with code 83 (or smaller???) from an operability,
construction, cost and appearance standpoint? Any feelings on brand
names that have worked well for you? At the cost of some of those #8
turnouts I sure don't want to make a mistake! (Even worse to have a J
fall 4 feet to the ground).



Thanks!!



Ed Svitil

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