Bachmann J HO Loco

NW Modeling List nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org
Sat Dec 5 04:52:19 EST 2009


Hi Barry I have the same problem with a small 4-6-0 of Bachmanns, but I need to get a Micro tsunami . take care. tony putnam

--- On Fri, 12/4/09, NW Modeling List <nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org> wrote:


From: NW Modeling List <nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org>
Subject: RE: Bachmann J HO Loco
To: nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org
Date: Friday, December 4, 2009, 8:37 AM




Hi

Thanks to Chris Dalton from Bluefield, and the good people at Soundtrax I have got the Bachmann J running with sound.

The Bachmann circuit board as fitted in the tender damaged the decoder, and Soundtrax repaired that at no charge. I have hard wired the decoder into the tender and discarded the Bachmann electrics. The lighting faied also, and I have fitted amber 12vLEDs which have a built in resistor and they also work a treat.

I did the same to a Rivorossi Challenger a while ago. This loco is I think 30 years old and looks and sounds good now.

The J Class is now a totally different loco, the motor control on the Soundtrax decoder is very good and there seems to be lots of pulling power. It has no problems pulling 8 around my test oval, which is all the track I have.

One day there will be an outside line, but thats a long legal time away.

This is a very interesting group and thanks for all your help.

Barry Reeves
Songwriter & Musician
www.northwestlondonblues.co.uk
and
www.ace-assembly.co.uk






To: nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org
Subject: Bachmann J HO Loco
Date: Sun, 11 Oct 2009 16:43:16 -0400
From: nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org



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Hello Barry,
 
It takes 3 screws to remove the shell from the Spectrum J.  One is in the front of the engine just over top of the leading axle on the pilot truck on the bottom side of the model.  You should be able to turn the pilot truck sideways and reach the screw with a medium sized jewelers phillips head screwdriver.  The 2 screws in the back are a little more tricky.  These 2 screws go in through the frame into the back outer corners of the cab underneath the model.  There is a plastic fixture on each side of the loco under the cab that friction fits into the side of the frame.  The feedwater lines come out of the shell behind the rear driver set and run into these fixtures under the cab.  These 2 plastic castings must be pried off with a small flathead screwdriver to reveal the screws beneath the cab.  The feedwater lines pivot on these fixtures, so as long as your not too rough, once you pry these two plastic casting off you should be able to pivot
them away from the cab enough to reach the screws.  Hope this helps.
 
Thanks,
Chris Dalton
Bluefield, WV







   

 

 

 

 











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