Brass painting advice wanted

[NW Modeling List]

Greg:
 
You've gotten lots of good advice, enough that you may now feel a little  
overwhelmed.  I think you'll find a lot of common threads; the best teacher  
is experience, so practicing on a couple of "lesser" models - undecorated  
Athearn "blue box" boxcars for example - might make you more comfortable 
before  you tackle your pride and joy Overland Vgn C-1.
 
Historically Larry would be right about spray cans, but my recent  
experience with Floquil spray cans (yes, used on "lesser" models) is that if you  
stay at about 15 +/- in. away, keep the spray moving, and stop immediately 
when  you've gotten coverage, it won't be too thick.  Don't be afraid of two  
light coats rather than one heavy.  Again, the air brush gives much more  
control, and what I just outlined isn't foolproof.
 
So, coming full circle, practice first and learn from experience.  The  
nice thing about a brass model is that if you don't like the first result, you  
can strip it and redo.  Anyone who claims they've never had to do that is  
either extremely lucky or...well, you  know.
 
Good luck,
 
Dave Phelps
 
 
In a message dated 5/12/2011 3:58:51 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org writes:

 
Greg: 
I agree with the comments that you  received about first investing in an 
airbrush, the can spray paint will go on  so thick that you will loose the 
fine detail on the model.  Second you  need to remove the lacquer overspray 
that is protecting the brass.  This  may take sometime; use a soft brush (old 
tooth brush) to remove the  lacquer.  If you know someone that has a 
sandblaster for fine detail  jewelry or models, that would be the ultimate in 
removing the lacquer in  preparing the model for primer.    I use floquil zinc 
primer  and bake the model in the oven for 1 hour at the lowest setting (less 
than 100  degrees) placing the model on a piece of wood.  For the final coat 
I  would use scalecoat, I know that they say that you don’t need primer with 
 scalecoat but I get better paint wear results priming then painting.  I  
would apply two coats of the base color, baking between each coat and then  
apply a gloss coat prior to applying the decals, again I know painters that  
say the scalecoat finish doesn’t need the gloss coat.  I feel that the  
decals go down better and you don’t see the film lines.    
The bottom line is to have fun and  remember that you can always start over 
again, I am sure that many of us have  had to strip a model because we were 
not satisfied with the final  results. 
Good Luck 
Larry Brown 
-----Original  Message-----
From:  nw-modeling-list-bounces at nwhs.org 
[mailto:nw-modeling-list-bounces at nwhs.org]  On Behalf Of NW Modeling  List
Sent: Thursday, May 12,  2011 12:29 PM
To:  nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org
Subject: Re: Brass painting advice  wanted 
 
Folks:
 

 
If  you go to the link Mike gave us and look in the upper right of the 
page,  you'll see "Stock status Discontinued."  Unfortunately Walthers gave me  
the same message (via a live person) a few weeks ago.  If your friendly  
neighborhood hobby shop still has some, grab it quick.  Both flavors of  
primer, flat, boxcar red and engine black in spray cans all seem to be  ok...for 
the moment...
 

 
Of  course, the recommendation for investment in an air brush and 
practicing until  you're confident is spot on, and in the long run the tradeoff for 
flexibility  in application and savings on paint versus convenience is yours 
to  decide.  I've gone both ways depending on my laziness at the  moment.
 

 
Dave  Phelps
 

 
 
In  a message dated 5/12/2011 12:03:13 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org writes:

 
 
In this instance  (easy job with no custom color mixing), I wouldn't be 
afraid to recommend  the Floquil model spray paint 3 oz cans.  
 
They are very fine  pigment paint, and Brown (toned down with a lot of 
black weathering) and  Caboose Red are standard colors that will serve him  well.
 
Here's a link for  the red....    
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXWE48
 

 
I would recommend  a primer first, followed by the red and black.  I would 
bake each item  in the oven at a reasonable temperature (don't melt the 
solder, or plastic  insulation on some wheel sets) to harden the paint. (this 
always worked well  with ScaleCoat enamael for me).  
 
Finally spray with  a gloss coat, then decal, then cover with  dull  coat.
 

 
Mike  Rector
 

 
 
  
____________________________________
 
From: NW Modeling List  <nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org>
To: NW Modeling List  <nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org>
Sent: Tuesday, March 8, 2011 9:41  AM
Subject: Re: Brass  painting advice wanted 
 
 
Hi  Greg;

First: buy some brass sheet stock, and practice practice and  more practice.

There are lots of techniques that work well, each  artist has develop their 
own.

Given your investment in the caboose; I  would strongly recommend that you 
invest in an air brush, and learn how to  use it.  An air brush is a tool 
that will last through thousands of  models, and cost less than what you paid 
for the caboose.

Probably  the best tool for surface prep of brass is an air eraser with 
baking soda or  similar media.  Then followed by a very thin primer coat.   

Always were gloves - nitrile is preferred as it is not effect by  
chemicals, and it is considered non-allergic.  Latex dissolves in many  chemicals, 
leaves residue, and many people are deadly allergic to  latex.  Finger oils 
will cause a strip and  repaint.

Nigel

----- Original Message -----
From: "NW  Modeling List" <nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org>
To:  nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org
Sent: Monday, March 7, 2011 8:13:25  PM
Subject: Brass painting advice wanted



 
Howdy,
 

 
I recently  purchased my first ever brass model, an N.I.B. Overland 
Virginian C-1 wood  caboose with pre-1954 K brake at a great price ($165) from a 
non-ebay  internet site, and need some painting advice.
 

 
I want to use  Floquil or Scalecoat flat Caboose Red canned spray paint for 
the car  body and use small brushes for the detail parts like steps,  
handrails, grabirons, etc. I've also got Bill Mosteler's decal set for  it.
 

 
There's lots of  internet info on painting brass with regards to surface 
preparation of the  brass. Some of it is simple and straightforward, some more 
complicated. Most  also recommend a light flat gray for a primer  coat.
 

 
I would love to  hear from any brass painters on these lists what your 
experience has been  like painting brass models, and what recommendations you 
have for surface  prep, painting detail parts, best paint brands, etc.  TIA!
 

 
Greg  Harrod
 
Fredericksburg,  Va.


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