Few Questions about Sunset M
NW Modeling List
nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org
Sun Nov 17 15:21:14 EST 2013
Thanks for the replies everyone. I have a rear coupler installed. looks
like the front coupler is going to take some more work. I took off the
boiler, and had a look at the motor. I'm a little bit confused. Attached to
my email is a picture. The red arrow points to the wire for the headlight.
The yellow arrow points to what I assume is the pickup for the
front/engine. The teal arrow points to the screw that goes to the
drawbar/tender. How to install the decoder? More directly, solder what to
what? Is the screw at the yellow arrow removable? Having a tough time
getting it to move at all. Also, still confused about that is picking up
what current and how power is transferred. I can take more pictures if
people need to see it to help me out. Thanks for the help!
-Brad Custer
Columbus, OH
On Fri, Nov 15, 2013 at 10:32 PM, NW Modeling List <
nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org> wrote:
> Brett,
>
> You've gotten some great advice in this thread which I can't add to other
> than to say my first DCC conversion project was on a Sunset M2. Not the
> same model as yours, but similar enough that I can tell you there weren't
> any surprises. I didn't add additional pickups, but I suspect I will at
> some later date.
>
> In the meantime, this document has some good example photographs that
> might allow you to approach the project with a little more confidence.
>
> http://markschutzer.com/Brass_Clinics/InstallingDecoders2008.pdf
>
> Matt Goodman
> Columbus, Ohio
>
>
> On Tuesday, November 12, 2013 4:27 PM, NW Modeling List <
> nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org> wrote:
>
> The M is a pain to DCC.
>
> The tender picks up fine.
> I swapped to the 9K gal tender with 2 axle trucks, and I had to add
> brushes to the inside of the trucks for better pick-up. I also made
> plastic drawbars.
>
> You will need to make a connection to the engine frame for the decoder
> harness.
> Check with a VOM to make sure both poles of the can motor are isolated
> from the frame.
>
> You will want to pop off the boiler front and prepare your headlight
> for a Grain of Dust bulb and make note of the resistor value required to
> run the bulb without frying it. Use a 1/2 watt or even 1 watt resistor with
> the Grain of Dust bulb.
>
> I suggest using some very tough paint, perhaps some water base clear
> gloss on the bottom and inside of the cylinders to prevent the front engine
> truck from shorting.
>
> For the front coupler, take a Kaydee #5 and cut off the end. Drill a
> pinhole through the shank, and also through the back end of the coupler
> pocket. I used some water based clear paint to insulate the contact points
> on the knuckle. I cut down a Kaydee #5 pocket so it fits the back end of
> the tender. I put the decoder in the tender too.
>
> I suggest paint it first so it will be apart when you start this
> project. I've done 2 M's and a W2(NWSL).
>
>
>
> Mark Lindsey
> Stuck in the 1930's
>
> From: NW Modeling List <nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org>
> Reply-To: NW Modeling List <nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org>
> Date: Tuesday, November 12, 2013 12:52 PM
> To: NW Modeling List <nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org>
> Subject: Re: Few Questions about Sunset M
>
> Generally, the tender trucks pick up one side and the engine picks up
> the other (check the insulated wheels). For DCC you will want to isolate
> the motor brushes from the engine frame. You can probably do this by
> breaking the connection you will see between one brush and the motor frame,
> since the motor frame is generally connected metal to metal to the
> locomotive frame (which is picking up current on the one side. Some people
> I know try to insulate the motor from the engine frame, but I don't think
> this is necessary (as long as the brushes are isolated.)
>
> Jim Nichols
>
> *From:* NW Modeling List <nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org>
> *To:* nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org
> *Sent:* Tuesday, November 12, 2013 8:56 AM
> *Subject:* Re: Few Questions about Sunset M
>
> Thanks for the replies everyone.
>
> Jim- I have been there and took the locomotive with me. They were a little
> bit baffled about DCC installation. Great place!
>
> Rick- What screws should I use? What about installing a working coupler on
> the front?
>
> Lynn- Are the tender trucks doing all the pickup? I see the locomotive
> won't run without the tender. What needs isolated to install the decoder?
> Again, I've never done a brass DCC installation before so any details you
> can provide would be helpful. I have very little DCC installation
> experience besides plug and go. So brass is daunting.
>
> Thanks all!
>
> Brad Custer
> Columbus, OH
>
>
> On Sat, Nov 9, 2013 at 10:04 PM, Custer, Bradley D <
> bradleydcuster at cedarville.edu> wrote:
>
> Hi all,
> Proud new owner of a like new, late run Sunset M #422. Several pressing
> questions...
>
> 1. I purchased Kadee #5 couplers. This seems like it wont't work on the
> tender as the coupler box will hang below the height of the rear trucks.
> This doesn't allow for full motion swing. What should I use instead? How
> about for the front?
>
> 2. DCC? How to install? I've never done a brass DCC installation before?
> Please give me as many details as you can?
>
> 3. Paperwork? Did it come with some and could someone scan a copy of it
> for me if it did?
>
> Thanks for your time!
>
> Happy railroading,
>
> Brad Custer
> Columbus, OH
>
>
>
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