Tuscan color
NW Modeling List
nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org
Wed Jul 16 19:40:43 EDT 2014
Try PineSol instead of brake fluid. Won't hurt the plastic....or your hands! Jim Nichols
On Tuesday, July 15, 2014 11:00 AM, NW Modeling List <nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org> wrote:
I've not stripped anything in years....but when I did I used brake fluid, an old tooth brush, and soap and water. Never had a problem but I know of folks that had damage to the plastic from the fluid..........but they left it in the fluid for a very long time. It always worked well for me.
Ed Painter; Narrows,VA living in Dahlonega,GA
On Jul 14, 2014, at 5:04 PM, NW Modeling List <nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org> wrote:
Thanks Ed. By the way, what do you
use for a stripper? . Purple Power seemed to work but it took a long
time.
>
>Lee Burns
>
>
>
>
>
>From:
NW Modeling List <nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org>
>To:
NW Modeling List <nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org>,
>Date:
07/14/2014 04:52 PM
>Subject:
Re: Tuscan color
>Sent by:
"NW-Modeling-List"
<nw-modeling-list-bounces at nwhs.org>
>
>
>________________________________
>
>
>
>A good airbrush is pretty important in achieving consistent,
quality results when spray painting railroad models.
>
>Ed Painter; Narrows,VA living in Dahlonega,GA
>
>
>On Jul 14, 2014, at 4:09 PM, Edwin Painter <edwinpainter at gmail.com>
wrote:
>
>Scalecoat doesn't recommend or require priming or undercoating
(white primer could certainly lighten or change the color of the red and
possibly require significantly thicker coating to achieve a darker color).
I've not used spray cans for many years (I have an airbrush). Spray
cans by their nature significantly lessen your control over the volume
and pattern when spraying. Well controlled and timed multiple, thin
coats are the way to keep from having runs from spray painting. I've never
warmed model railroad paints.
>
>I'd simply made sure the cars were completely stripped
and free from moisture of oily film, and likewise free from dust and lint.
I'd be sure the spray can was thoroughly shaken up and mixed. I'd
test spray the can. (you need good lighting) I'd begin painting methodically
spraying the nooks and crannies around the detailed fixtures and edges
that require using various spray angles until they were properly covered
(multiple thin coats) working up to 0 degree spraying of the ends, underside,
and roof (multiple thin coats). Depending on the model the roofs
could be attached or removable and would be painted either black of N&W
brown (here too s a subject of fun debate). Anyway if attached assure it
too has at least a smooth coat of red so when coming back (after masking)
to paint it a different color it has a good starting surface condition.
>
>Ed Painter; Narrows,VA living in Dahlonega,GA
>
>
>
>
>On Jul 14, 2014, at 1:33 PM, NW Modeling List <nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org>
wrote:
>
>Scalecoat II on plastic Con-Cor passenger cars.
>
>
>On Jul 14, 2014, at 1:19 PM, "NW Modeling List" <nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org>
wrote:
>
>These are brass cars? or plastic? Scalecoat
or Scalecoat II?
>
>Ed Painter Narrows,VA living in Dahlonega,GA
>
>
>On Jul 14, 2014, at 9:11 AM, NW Modeling List <nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org>
wrote:
>
>Since I started all this... I
bought what turned out to be a spray can of Scalecoat N&W Red from
my hobby shop. I stripped the cars and sprayed white primer. I
think I made a huge rookie mistake warming the can of paint in warm tap
water. Works for enamel but not necessarily lacquer. (I'm assuming
Scalecoat is lacquer) My first reaction was "this is purple
paint". I must have applied ten light coats. The paint
is really thin and I have some runs which was discouraging. I'll
let them dry, sand and try again. In hindsight, I would have used
a darker primer and not warmed the paint. I have been out of modelling
a few years....
>
>Lee Burns
>
>
>
>From: NW
Modeling List <nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org>
>To: NW
Modeling List <nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org>,
>Date: 07/14/2014
06:52 AM
>Subject: Re:
Tuscan color
>Sent by: "NW-Modeling-List"
<nw-modeling-list-bounces at nwhs.org>
>
>
>________________________________
>
>
>
>Amen! Just pick a shade of red or blue that pleases you and enjoy!
>
>Ed Painter - Narrows,VA living in Dahlonega,GA
>
>
>On Jul 12, 2014, at 4:10 PM, NW Modeling List <nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org>
wrote:
>
>The archives has informed me that we don't have color chips in the archives.
>Based on the discussion so far, even if we had them, it probably wouldn't
settle this argument.
>I'm not sure anything would actually settle this argument.
>I, for one, do appreciate the guys who did chime in with the "this
works for me" answer, that is really the best answer for the original
inquirer.
>And it does appear that over the years we've learned the impact of lighting,
time, distance, perception, weathering, and lighting.
>
>Frank Bongiovanni
>
>
>On Thu, Jul 3, 2014 at 7:25 PM, NW Modeling List <nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org>
wrote:
>FWIW perhaps the model committee could provide a paint chip or drift card
to Tru-Color; I'm sure they would be glad to add N&W Tuscan to their
line of prototypically correct model paints.
>Jim Brewer
>Glenwood MD
>
>
>
>________________________________
>
>From: "NW Modeling List" <nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org>
>To: "NW Modeling List" <nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org>
>Sent: Thursday, July 3, 2014 3:28:14 PM
>Subject: RE: Tuscan color
>
>
>Lee;
>
>What both Frank and Ed are talking about occurs in most every society.
Having lived in Milwaukee, WI for several years, I watched an argument
between a pair of Milw. Rd. HS members about the correct color orange on
their passenger cars and other equipment. One member argued that the second
was wrong in that they were all painted the same color & shade of orange.
The second while partially agreed, he stated that they were not all the
same color orange, as he had seen them come out of the paint shops is different
shades of orange, with the paint being ordered at the same time from the
same paint mfgr., which at the time was being delivered in 55 gal drums.
The first individual continued to tell the second he was wrong but finally
realized he had to quit arguing when the second told him that he was one
of a half dozen employees of the Milw. Road who painted their equipment
fleet for a living.....
>
>That being said, the N&W Red from Scalecoat color works well, however
it has a bit of a metallic flake to it. There are several colors I have
seen work fairly well, including WC Maroon. Another color that has just
come onto the market is from TruColor paints, which is very similar in
nature to the old line of Accu-Paint. They are now offering part # TCP-276
- PRR 1948+ Passenger Car Tuscan.
>
>I am sure that somewhere in the archives there is a Paint ID # for the
non-metallic red, that can be shared and closely matched with current commercial
paints from a PPG or ICI paint dealer. I would suggest obtaining a small
amount of said color and try to best match that color by primering a piece
of styrene and top coating the commercial grade paint, and then doing the
same with several colors of model rr paint and seeing which works best
for you and you lighting situation. Keep in mind that some clear coats
will slightly shift the tone of the color of the paint. Also, the color
primer will yield different finish colors as well. Tamyia offers both a
white and mild grey primer paint for example. Darker colors tend to pop
more on a lighter base color.
>
>Hope this helps.
>
>Regards,
>Russ Goodwin
>Buford, GA
>
>
>
>________________________________
>Date: Wed, 2 Jul 2014 23:16:58 -0400
>Subject: Re: Tuscan color
>To: nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org
>From: nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org
>
>Lee; what Ed is referring to is a "color flame war" that happens
every time N&W Tuscan Red or Pevlar Blue shows up on this list. FWIW,
this also happens on the C&O list with Enchantment Blue, the C&O
list and the NYC list with shades of gray, and probably just about every
other model railroad list.
>
>Hopefully someone who does a lot of painting, and is pleased with the result,
will tell you what mix works for them, and will nicely mention that with
lighting, etc. (the etc. is half a clinic)you may have to make adjustments.
With that I can't help; tuff enough for us Virginian modelers to
settle on workable yellows and black. One thing I can tell you, is
that Dr. Jim EuDaly (he's an eye doc, so this isn't fantasy)actually told
us in a clinic (at a C&O meet)that color actually varies a bit with
scale, and (I hope I got this right)you probably need a tad lighter mix
than an HO modeler would. I can also tell you that your room lighting
is probably one of the most important factors. I guess there's one
other thing I should mention because the more experienced painters consider
it so obvious they don't mention it: make sure the light where you paint
is the same as the light on the layout.
>
>Frank Bongiovanni
>
>
>On Wed, Jul 2, 2014 at 5:48 PM, NW Modeling List <nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org>
wrote:
>My favorite modeling list topic!
>
>Ed Painter Narrows,VA living in Dahlonega,GA
>
>
>On Jul 2, 2014, at 3:21 PM, NW Modeling List <nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org>
wrote:
>
>I am new member to the modeling list. I am painting an N scale passenger
car set and wondered what color you folks recommend to match the Tuscan
red.
>
>Thank you,
>
>Lee Burns
>
>
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