Swiveling rear engines/the Arrow

[NW Modeling List]

Matt, in one of my clinics I spend some time discussing threshold's of
tolerance: i.e. what bothers you.  And this will vary from individual to
individual.  As I said, the rear engine swiveling bothers me, but it hasn't
bothered me enough to keep me from some locomotive purchases.  Factors
include things like 6 coupled or 8 coupled, and how much I have to pay for
one that doesn't swivel.  Watching the cylinders on the rear engine swing
out is mildly irritating.  Hasn't kept me from the Bachman C&O H5 and the
Proto 2-8-8-2, but I do prefer the Powerhouse 2-8-8-2.  I noticed that the
Precision VGN AG is now available for a bit over $3,000.  So VGN guys now
have to think about the Rivarossi at around $4-500, the Key at around
$800-$1,000, and the Overland creeping up on $2000 (although the
availability of the Precision may cause that to drop).  One other point: a
good number of Gem/Akane VGN AG's were sold, although they were just C&O
Alleghenies with a different box.  Anybody who can come up with the correct
AG dome (I'm still expecting someone to do it in 3D printing)may be able to
sell a few.

But the spread of what bothers some people is interesting.  Personally, the
MTH Virginian triplex gives me a headache.  You and I know people who get
hystercal at what they perceive as the wrong shade of (pick one): Tuscan
Red, Pevler Blue, Enchantment Blue, Brunswick Green....you get the idea.

On a related note (thanks for the reminder, Harold)we welcome articles
where someone has taken a stock model and "fixed" or detailed it to make it
closer to a true N&W or Virginian prototype.  [Sidebar: if anyone has
successfullly kitbashed, brassbashed, or scratchbuilt a Virginian 4-6-2,
please tell us about it].

And one other point in a memo that's already too long (shocker, I know).
Generally, and this involves scores of locomotives, an articulated N&W
2-8-8-2, even with a fixed rear engine, is usually not a minimum radius
problem.  Partly because it is articulated (which was Anatole Mallet's
point)and partly because the drivers are comparatively small.  A PRR Q-2 or
Santa Fe 2-10-4 is more likely to be a problem, but will take 30" usually.
A UP 4-12-2 usually needs 34" or more.

Now with all that said, any of you who have successfully rigidized the rear
engine of a Rivarossi, BLI, Bachman, or Proto articulated, an article is
invited.

Frank Bongiovanni
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <https://pairlist6.pair.net/pipermail/nw-modeling-list/attachments/20150203/4d280fad/attachment.html>