Looking for a CF cab image - car side bolts, under cupola

NW Mailing List nw-mailing-list at nwhs.org
Wed Nov 2 16:22:34 EDT 2022


Nice work as usual, Mike. That would make a good addition to anyone who has unbuilt kits in their position - they should take advantage of your offer.  Thanks for the pointers to the general arrangement, Ken.

Ten or more years ago - probably more, I made a cupola-bolt drilling jig out of card stock (an index card) with the holes reinforced with CA. It worked well. My dad (also on this list) eyeballed his, because he has that skill. (Side note, I made a decal guide using the same materials - the CA in that case was to waterproof it).

Which reminds me that I promised a write-up on building the AMB models a year or two ago (again, probably more). 

Matt Goodman 
Columbus, Ohio, US

> On Oct 31, 2022, at 5:32 PM, NW Mailing List <nw-mailing-list at nwhs.org> wrote:
> 
> Mike,
> 
> I built a styrene jig for a pair of AMB CFs, and used Grandt Line 5045 1" NBWs.
> 
> Jim Laney
> 
> On Mon, Oct 31, 2022 at 3:19 AM NW Mailing List <nw-mailing-list at nwhs.org <mailto:nw-mailing-list at nwhs.org>> wrote:
> Does anyone have a high quality image of a CF car side, below the cupola, that they can share with me?   I wish to learn the size of the nuts on the side wall, and if they are square or hex shaped.
> I know these pictures are models, but I am looking for prototype photos, so I sent to this list instead.
> 
> I am adding nut/bolt/washer castings to my Westside Model & AMB CF's. I created a 3D printed drilling jig, based on a very good side shot of a CF (see below). I am making one for AMB (the cupola length is 0.4mm longer on the AMB so the positioning tabs don't fit over the cupola.  I don't have any OMI models to try it on. I do have a Div Point, but I don't imagine anyone wants to drill into their DP model.
> Because the resin is somewhat soft, I expect this jig is probably good for about 2 cars.  If anyone is interested in one, send me a message ( mrector333 @ gmail dot com ) .  They take 2 hours to print, but I can print about 10 at a time. It costs about $0.12 in resin to print.  I could scale up to O Scale, but you would need to send me a very precise measurement.
> 
> <image.png>
> 
> It took me less than 5 mins to drill both sides of this brass cab.  I tried a 0.6mm bit by hand, and it broke on the first hole. So I switched to the Dremel on lowest speed with a 0.7mm drill bit and it drilled easily.  I think I could have used a 0.6mm if I tried with the dremel first.  Someone already shamed me into buying brass parts, instead of plastic.  😉  (Thus my initial question.) If I'm going to buy some Precision Scale detail parts, I might as well buy the right style and size.  I have 5 more WSM and 3 more AMB models to drill.
> <image.png>.
> Here's the back side. Keep in mind it is oriented upside down here. The two recesses on left and right are for the gutters, and the large recess on photo left is for the bathroom window.  The two positioning tabs fit over the roof and match the angle, and around the ends of the cupola.  The orange pieces are print supports that snap off after it prints.  someone better than me probably could have made this in 5 mins.  It took me 7 prints to get everything just right. The last thing I did was to raise the holes slightly, as the two upper bolts are supposed to be just above the top of the side window frame. I drilled mine just a little low (bottom pic).
> <image.png>
> 
> <image.png>
> 
> Mike Rector
> 
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