[Woodcarver] Gouges

[Bill Judt]

Charlie:

My responses are below...

Bill

My books are for sale at: http://wwwoodcarver.com/Books/index.html
W.F. Judt,
46 Harvard Cres,
Saskatoon, Saskatchewan,
S7H3R1
PH: 306-373-6649
bjudt at sasktel.net
Website: http://www.wwwoodcarver.com


On 10-Jan-07, at 1:19 AM, Charlie Briggs wrote:

Q: Is the answer as simple as using the flattest gouge that will work  
for you at that time?
Ans:
Also use the sharpest tool... and the largest tool... and the  
smallest tool... that will work for you at the time.

Q: Someone once told me that gouges are designed to cut across the  
grain, when I try that the wood usually splinters and chips.
  Ans: Keep the shoulders of the tool OUT of the wood. And... when  
cutting cross-grain, you need extra sharp tools. Also... the cutting  
edge of the tool works better if it is thinner, rather than thicker.  
Oh... and remember... use the SHARPEST tool that will work for you at  
the time.

Q: Some gouges have a different angle or bevel at the cutting edge,  
what is the reason for that? Does it have something to do with the  
hardness of wood you are trying to carve that determines which angle  
you should use?
Ans: It has to do with the hardness of the wood for which the tool  
was sharpened... or... it has to do with an inexperienced carver who  
has not yet developed enough "muscle memory" to sharpen tools  
consistently.


Q: I have a few gouges that I inherited that have the bevel on the  
opposite side of the gouge, it is like the cutting edge is reversed.  
How and when would they be used?
Ans: As Maura stated... these are likely backbent gouges, or (I  
think) firmer chisels.

Hope this helps,

Bill
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