[Woodcarver] Painting using linseed oil and artist oil (chat)

[Tom Clarke]

Merrilee,

     Are you SURE it was boiled ?  If you use plain ordinary
linseed oil that's what happens, it never hardens.

Tom (nj)  ;--)
well, almost never, takes forever and the thicker it is the
worser it gets <g>

-----Original Message-----
From: woodcarver-bounces at six.pairlist.net
[mailto:woodcarver-bounces at six.pairlist.net]On Behalf Of Merrilee
Johnson
Sent: Wednesday, January 17, 2007 9:12 PM
To: woodcarver at six.pairlist.net
Subject: Re: [Woodcarver] Painting using linseed oil and artist oil
(chat)



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Thank you for your information on how you finished your carving.  One
time I
tried boiled linseed oil but it smelled bad and stayed sticky for
months.  I
think I did something wrong.  It's time to try again!
Merrilee



>Dan,

>

>There have been a few of you who have shown interest on how I

finished my

>"Voyageur" carving.

>

>This is just one way to finish a carving. I'm sure if you asked one

hundred

>carvers how they finish a carving, you'll get about one hundred

different

>answers.

>

>Ivan gave a nice overview of various mediums; the one I'll show is

using

>boiled linseed oil and artist oils.

>

>When you start this process, it must be completed in one setting. You

want

>the linseed oil, which will saturate the carving, to remain in a

liquid

>state so the artists oil blends with the linseed oil rather than

laying on

>top of it. If the linseed oil is dry, the paint will lay on the

surface of

>the carving rather than becoming an integral part of it.

>

>Saturate the carving with boiled linseed oil until it will not accept

any

>more. Once the carving is saturated, wipe off all superficial linseed

oil

>with a rag, then use a dry soft bristle brush to remove any oil which

may

>be

>trapped in crevasses. Brush an area where you want to remove the

trapped

>linseed oil, and then wipe the brush on a rag to remove any liquid

which

>was

>collected on the brush. Continue the brush/wipe procedure until all

>superficial oil is removed from the surface and all crevasse of the

>carving.

>

>For my palette, I use a separate cup saucer for each color I'm going

to

>use.

>Pour a small amount of linseed oil in the depression where the cup

would

>sit, and on the lip of the saucer squeeze a small bead of a color you

will

>be using.

>

>Mix a small amount of the paint with some of the linseed oil to make

a

>stain

>and paint the stain on the carving. Continue this until you have the

>carving

>painted with all the colors desired.

>

>By having the carving saturated with the linseed oil, the paint will

blend

>with the wet linseed oil which saturates the carving and stay where

you

>want

>it without bleeding.

>

>If you want more wood grain to show in specific areas, or you want to

>highlights, wipe some of the stain from the surface of the carving.

Wiping

>will remove some of the superficial stain, yet leave that which has

>saturated into the carving.

>

>I allow the stained carving to dry for a couple of weeks before

painting

>the

>pupils in the eyes. Again after a couple of weeks, I used white paint

on

>the

>tip of a needle to put the glint in the eyes.

>

>When all the paint was dry, I coated the carving with a light spray

of

>clear

>acrylic varnish to protect the base paint.

>

>I like this process because the carving has color, yet you can see

the wood

>grain through the paint. Again, if you want to see what this process

looks

>like, check my web site at www.ellenwoodarts.com

><http://www.ellenwoodarts.com/> , click on Gallery and on thumbnail

"one".

>

>You can also use this process using pure tung oil in place of the

linseed

>oil.

>

>Each time you used any rags in this process, properly dispose of them

to

>prevent the potential of spontaneous combustion.

>

>Any questions, please contact me.

>

>

>

>Ev Ellenwood

>

>

>

>www.ellenwoodarts.com <http://www.ellenwoodarts.com/>

>

>ellenwoodarts at charter.net

>

>

>




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