Red Paint for AMB Caboose

[NW Modeling List]

Matt Goodman wrote:



*This model (and perhaps all AMB models) has a sub-structure car body of
heavy bass (I think) wood. The finish/detail layer is peel and stick wood
that is laminated to the sub structure. Jim and Bill, painting/priming both
sides still necessary in this case?As I noted in the build document I
attached last week, I painted everything based on advice from my hobbyshop
- including the sub-structure. Later, I  came to the conclusion it wasn?t
necessary due to the thickness of the structure - at least from a warping
perspective. I do recall that the peel and stick siding was very thirsty,
so priming what would become finished/painted surfaces makes sense.*

Matt, I don't think there is a right or wrong approach to preparing wooden
models, just like there is no right or wrong choice of paint. And I will
say that only my experience with peel and stick has been with structure
kits. I have a scratch built caboose from the 1960s that I did not
back-prime and it is dimensionally stable today, with Floquil lacquer
paint. And then I have a scratch built reefer from the same period that I
did not back-prime and the scribed siding parted as the car dried. Go
figure.

As I encountered some issues with wooden structures, both kits and
scratched, I just adopted a practice to back-prime everything wooden, from
siding to lumber. It works for me, but that is not to say your AMB cab
won't be fine over time.

Bill

*Bill McClure*
*www.billmcclure.smugmug.com* <http://www.billmcclure.smugmug.com>

*www.mcclureimages.com <http://www.mcclureimages.com>*
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