Red Paint for AMB Caboose

[NW Modeling List]

Thanks Bill. My cab is going on 12 years old - though it hasn’t seemed that long! So far so good. 

Matt Goodman
Columbus, Ohio

Sent from my mobile

On Aug 29, 2020, at 9:57 PM, NW Modeling List <nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org> wrote:


Matt Goodman wrote:

This model (and perhaps all AMB models) has a sub-structure car body of heavy bass (I think) wood. The finish/detail layer is peel and stick wood that is laminated to the sub structure. Jim and Bill, painting/priming both sides still necessary in this case?

As I noted in the build document I attached last week, I painted everything based on advice from my hobbyshop - including the sub-structure. Later, I  came to the conclusion it wasn?t necessary due to the thickness of the structure - at least from a warping perspective. I do recall that the peel and stick siding was very thirsty, so priming what would become finished/painted surfaces makes sense.

Matt, I don't think there is a right or wrong approach to preparing wooden models, just like there is no right or wrong choice of paint. And I will say that only my experience with peel and stick has been with structure kits. I have a scratch built caboose from the 1960s that I did not back-prime and it is dimensionally stable today, with Floquil lacquer paint. And then I have a scratch built reefer from the same period that I did not back-prime and the scribed siding parted as the car dried. Go figure. 

As I encountered some issues with wooden structures, both kits and scratched, I just adopted a practice to back-prime everything wooden, from siding to lumber. It works for me, but that is not to say your AMB cab won't be fine over time.

Bill
Bill McClure
www.billmcclure.smugmug.com
www.mcclureimages.com

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