Imron was: Tuscan paint

[NW Modeling List]

Imron has many different mixes and is a very differentanimal since Axalta
bought them from Duponte, it's not just an epoxy coating anymore. I have
used their industrial paint for over 10+ years of painting full sized
locomotives. The type of paint that will most likely be put on the
passenger car would be 3.5HG+, which is a high gloss Polyurethane. They
might be using the 2.5 HGd+ that's a DTM, but I highly doubt it. The paint
we use to paint locomotives with is the 3.5HG+ over a high build imron
primer, and then an Axalta clear coat over it (although that's not a
necessary step for the 3.5). Is it dangerous? Sure, all paints are
dangerous, but Imron is way safer than the garbage GE had us use
(strathmore). Even model paints, I still use a respirator when painting my
stuff.

For models, you might be able to thin it down enough, but it's going to
look dark. I'd wait for a good model color to come out, or find a Tuscan
red that looks close

Jon Jones

On Mon, Jan 29, 2024, 2:47 PM NW Modeling List <nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org>
wrote:

> Imron is an epoxy coating used to seal concrete and other porous
> materials.   It is not really a paint.  In addition to all the safety
> issues,  the surface preparation will dissolve a plastic model, and it is a
> rather thick coating.  It is not automotive grade,  it is heavy industrial
> grade.  It is also not sold to just anyone.   The closest stuff available
> to the general public is garage floor coating.
>
> Not the kind of coating you would want on a detailed model.
>
> Nigel
>
> On Mon, Jan 29, 2024, 1:16 PM NW Modeling List <nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org>
> wrote:
>
>> Richard et al,
>> Thanks for all of your information and advice.  I am giving ample
>> consideration to everyone's input.  I very fondly remember, it may
>> have been at our first Williamson convention, when Pat Ryan handed me a
>> baby food jar of Tuscan red paint that someone had had mixed from the
>> formula codes Tom Dressler put forward back in the day.  I was very pleased
>> with the results I got using it.  Later when I was living in Houston, I had
>> a pint of red and a pint of blue mixed for me according Tom''s codes and
>> again was very pleased with the outcome.  At a minimum, If we can get some
>> of the current formula, it should provide us with a good starting point for
>> achieving a good match in small scale by lightening as Jim Nichols (whose
>> advice I have considered to be invaluable ever since I joined) has
>> described.  And since I will be doing test shots, even if it turns out
>> poorly, all I will be out is a bit of tiime and money, and I'll be a little
>> wiser for the experience.
>> Jim C.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> .
>>
>> On Mon, Jan 29, 2024 at 12:27 PM NW Modeling List via NW-Modeling-List <
>> nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org> wrote:
>>
>>> Jim,
>>>
>>> I have had paints like this mixed at most any automotive paint supplier.
>>> I would think if they have the code for Imron that they could convert it to
>>> a much safer Acrylic.
>>>
>>> Back in the 80's I took the paint code for N&W blue to a local paint
>>> supplier. I watched as he entered the codes and he said, "Oh, Norfolk and
>>> Western blue". I knew I had the right code then. Unfortunately, those codes
>>> are no longer valid. Today's match for N&W Blue is GM 708A/735 (1960)
>>> Marlin Blue. I have contemplated having some mixed, in Acrylic, to add to
>>> our decal line.
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>>
>>> Richard D. Shell
>>> ShellScale Decals
>>>
>>> In a message dated 1/29/2024 7:25:04 AM Eastern Standard Time,
>>> nw-modeling-list at nwhs.org writes:
>>>
>>>
>>> The 300 preservation society has posted that they are going to use
>>>
>>> Imron paint code for the Tuscan (RH-725261)
>>>
>>> to restore the car to its former color.
>>>
>>> Does anyone know how to go about obtaining a gallon or less of
>>> this paint?
>>>
>>> Would be nice to be able to use "the real thing" on my passenger
>>> equipment.
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>>
>>> Jim Cochran
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